The biggest issue with sunscreen isn’t the ingredients; it’s the system regulating them.
The FDA hasn’t meaningfully updated sunscreen regulations since 1999, when many of today’s concerns around absorption and long-term exposure weren’t fully understood. Meanwhile, newer, more advanced UV filters have become standard in other countries but remain unavailable in the U.S.
In 2019, the FDA proposed updated guidelines. Only zinc oxide and titanium dioxide were classified as generally safe, while all other ingredients were placed in a “needs more data” category. That process stalled, largely due to the time and testing required to reevaluate products already on the market.
As it stands today, the FDA maintains that the safety of many sunscreen ingredients has not been fully established.
According to CNN:
“Testing released in 2019 by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration found seven chemical ingredients — avobenzone, oxybenzone, octocrylene, ecamsule, homosalate, octisalate, and octinoxate — were absorbed into the bloodstream after a single day of use.”
“The concentration of these chemicals increased daily and stayed above safety thresholds for over a week. Homosalate and oxybenzone remained elevated even after 21 days.”
Several major sunscreen brands have also been recalled in recent years due to contamination with benzene, a known carcinogen for which no safe exposure level exists. Brands like Banana Boat and Neutrogena faced recalls between 2021 and 2023. Benzene, often found in aerosol cans, is even more dangerous when inhaled. The New York Post reported that:
“Short-term exposure to benzene can cause dizziness, drowsiness, and unconsciousness. Long-term exposure may lead to bone marrow damage, anemia, and increased risk of cancer, particularly leukemia.”
SPF boosters (additional chemicals used to inflate SPF ratings) are another concern. Products labeled above SPF 50 offer only marginal additional protection, yet manufacturers often add more untested chemicals to support those claims.
Marketing is also behind the inclusion of extra ingredients like fragrance and Vitamin A. Fragrance chemicals aren’t required to be disclosed, and Vitamin A (commonly retinyl palmitate) has been shown to increase the risk of skin damage and skin cancer when exposed to sunlight.
Due to bans in key beach destinations, sunscreen manufacturers have started changing formulas. In 2016, oxybenzone was found in 70% of non-mineral sunscreens. Today, it’s down to 9%. Similarly, retinyl palmitate is now in only 2% of SPF products, a major decline from 41% in 2010.
The Comeback of Body Oils:
For several years, face oils as moisturizers have grown more popular, and some areas are shifting to a sun-guard SPF body oil. The benefits are that oils absorb more naturally into the skin without chemicals and leave a glimmering sheen that’s reminiscent of the 1960’s body oil. These oils, however, can have SPF up to 50 and many use mineral protection.
However, most oils are not as waterproof as lotions, and they require more application for the same amount of coverage. These are probably still best as more of a tanning solution with decent coverage.
What To Do?
Stick to mineral sunscreens. Though they can feel heavier, they are far safer. In response to rising demand, many brands are improving texture and application. Look for products that are mineral-based, fragrance-free, and from companies committed to transparency. Some mineral sunscreens still have boosters and chemicals added for texture and scent, so you still have to read the fine print.
If you’re traveling abroad this summer, consider buying sunscreen locally. Europe and Asia have adopted newer, safer sunscreen technologies. When you travel, look for sunscreens that advertise new sun-sheild technology and do not contain avobenzone or benzene.
Korean skincare has been trending for the last few years, and there is one Korean sunscreen that, in my opinion, is far better and safer than any other brand, listed below.
Best Korean Sunscreen:
Beauty of Josean, Sun Relief + Probiotics
Best Sports:
La Roche-Posay makes the best formulas using the new ingredients that aren’t approved in the US yet. Here is their sports sunscreen.
Best US Brands:
ColorScience and Project Reef both offer lightweight mineral sunscreens.
